This is based on information from
Forschungsanstalt Geisenheim (Rheingau), whose particular interest is in
producing red wines.
The Spätburgunder is very demanding of the site as well as the
climate. Because of the popularity and high demand the planted area has
increased rapidly worldwide, however in Germany this has been partly in unsuitable sites.
Pinot Noir has above all a fine aroma with a slight almond tone, underlined with
flavours hinting of raspberries, cherries and redcurrants.
Traditionally
it is made with crushed-berry-fermentation and with malo-lactic fermentation
(biological acid 'reduction'). Storage and maturation in Barriques lends the wine a
herby/vegetal wood note, fire and lots of charm.
Clone selections of Pinot Noir can be divided into 5 groups:-
a) Compact clones
b) Loose-berried clones
c) Mixed clones
d) Upright-growing clones
e) Small-berried clones
With Pinot Noir clones the 'strength' against fungus attack by botrytis cinerea
plays a very significant roll. When desiring to produce a high value
red wine the percentage of grapes affected by botrytis cinerea must be less
than 5% of the grapes processed. Pinot Noir wines
are extremely sensitive to the phenoloxydase LACCASE, an enzyme that is excreted from
the botrytis cinerea fungus. It is responsible for maturation affects
(unpleasant ageing/maturation tones, nuts, over-ripe plums, glue...) and for
yellowing.a) The compact clones: almost all
French clones have a compact grape-bunch structure. As they swell the berries are pressed against
each other,
especially in strong-growing soils and in times with heavy-downpours of rain.
The developing fissures create an ideal environment for grapes infected with
the fungus botrytis cinerea, which then become of no use for red wine
production. Because of the high sensitivity to botrytis the compact clones
should only be planted in dry flat-ground sites.
The French clones
777, 667, 927, 792, 872, 870, 386 are ones to follow, also 115, 114, 113,
which are slightly more resistant to botrytis. These 10 clones have a high quality
potential. Within the French
clones only relatively small differences can be observed.
Other French clones
388, 389, 668, 236, 780, 665, 292, 111 are the most sensitive to botrytis and are inclined towards high
yields. They are not recommended for planting in Germany.
The
advantage of the compact clones is due to the better ratio between fruit-flesh and berry-skins, so that a higher aroma and colour-extraction can be
obtained. In most years the German winegrower must accept a very high loss from
a strong botrytis attack. Otherwise the botrytis infection means selective
harvesting is necessary which takes much more picking time.
Compact clones, from Germany: Freiburg Fr 52-86, Fr 54-102, Fr 52-78, Fr 10, Fr
11;
Geisenheim 18 Gm; Frank 105; Laimburg
L64, L69; SMA185, SMA191,
SMA201.
b) The loose-berried clones:
these possess a less tight grape-bunch structure, eg. the stalk-structure is
longer, so that the berries almost never burst at the same time.
The main advantage of the loose-berries is the resistance to botrytis,
even in heavy-rain years such as 2001. For these clones the ratio
between fruit-flesh and berry-skin with the aim of producing quality wine seems to be
less advantageous; in Germany in most years the quality of the compact clones still
outweighs the advantage of the botrytis-resistance of the loose-berried
clones. In compensation for this disadvantage the significantly lower rot
allows a longer ripening of up to 3 weeks compared with the compact-clones.
With these clones one can differentiate the M-type (Mariafeld clones from
Wadenswil) and the Gm-type (from Geisenheim) from others:-
Mariafeld M-type; Geisenheim
Gm-type
1-x Gm (eg. 1-1 Gm, 1-6 Gm, 1-11 Gm, 1-44 Gm, 1-53 Gm, 1-55 Gm, 1-84 Gm): with larger bunch-structure, longer stalks;
average botrytis-infection 8-10 %; very high yield; high acidity;
sour-cherry aroma (perhaps not desirable in a classic Pinot Noir red wine);
however, the Geisenheim clones have much lower acidity than the
Mariafeld clones, so are suited for red wine.
The Mariafeld clones may be very interesting for Sparkling Wine.
Others: Weinsberg
M1, M847,
M898; Freiburg Fr 12L, Fr 13 L; Auer 2107: with smaller stalk-structure but
loose bunch-structure; average botrytis-infection 3-5 %;
high yield; lower acidity; aromatic like compact clones.
To produce Spätburgunder red wines on sites with deep rich soils it is
advantageous to plant the loose-berried Gm-Type clones (a
recommendation from Geisenheim), although these do not have the typical Pinot
Noir aroma (which some Mariafeld clones have).
c) Mixed clones: The clones Frank 105S and 20-13 Gm provide
an interesting alternative. According to reports these are only 'compact' in certain years. In other years they have a loose-berried bunch structure.
The Gm clones have relatively lower acidity.
d) The upright-growing clones: the main advantage of these clones
is their easy working nature and upright growth. Leaf-work is easy to complete because of
the upright growth, the grape-bunch zone is free from leaves because of lower
side-shoot growth. The bunches are compact however due to the good air flow
through the grape-bunch zone they are as resistant to botrytis as the loose-berried
clones. The disadvantage of these clones is very late beginning to the ripening
as well as the comparatively higher must-acidity.
Upright-growing clones are well suited for the production of base wine for
Crémant also for Pinot Noir wines 'vinified white'.
e)
The small-berried clones: the berries of these clones are very small,
for that reason the relationship between fruit and berry-skin is especially
interesting in reaching a high aroma and colour extraction. The small-berry
grape-bunch structure in most years suffers only a low botrytis attack, as the
berries are not squashed against each other. On average the botrytis infection of
the small-berried clones is similar to that of the loose-berried M-Type clones.
Their yield lies 30 to 50% below that of the Mariafeld klones, that is in the
realms of the production of some French clones, for example the 115.
As regards ripening potential the small-berried clones are better than the
compact French clones.
Small-berried clones are well suited for production of
high-value red wines. Due to the good botrytis resistance these clones can also
be planted in deep and rich soils. Because of the high demand for these plants
it is at present very difficult to buy them.
The